GO & STAY

Stood on the harbour wall in St. Ives, looking out towards the far curve of St. Ives Bay, you can just make out a long stretch of golden sand in the distance. For us, this is the best place to be come the summer months when places like St. Ives get a bit too busy.

Gwithian and Godrevy, which become one at low-tide, are a world away from some of the over commercialised ‘surfing’ beaches in the area; wild and windswept, backed by cliffs and dunes, the sand stretches on for miles so there’s always enough space for it not to feel too crowded.

It’s a place where you feel like you’ve properly escaped, which is why we were so pleased to discover you can actually stay right there, a literal stone’s throw from the beach.

Perched on top of the Gwithian cliffs is a small community of wooden beach huts known as the ‘Towans’. Painted in soft blues and greys, these holiday homes are anything but a place to change into your wetsuit.

We stayed in Driftwood and it was everything a surf shack should be; comfortable, stylish and well equipped. Surfboards hang from the ceiling in the wood-clad living space, while the windows frame all-important views of the surf. The owners have thought of everything you might need for a family holiday. There’s an outdoor shower to wash off the sand, a barbecue and large picnic table, plus all the buckets and spades, body-boards and beach shelters you could possibly need.

The best bit though is that in just a few minutes you can be on the beach with smooth sand and rolling Atlantic surf stretching out before you. Even if you aren’t into getting wet (I’m in this camp), the beach is a beautiful place to be, perfect for sand castles, beachcombing and walks.

EAT & DRINK

There’s no need to go far to eat and drink well. Driftwood has four great cafes nearby, the closest being Sunset Surf, serving burgers and salads with great views of the sea and St. Ives in the distance. Walking along the beach, towards Godrevy Head, the converted horsebox on Godrevy Beach makes a great pit-stop for coffee and cake. A little further still and you’ll find Godrevy Beach Café in the National Trust car park. Open from 10am for breakfast, the fresh, wholesome and hearty menu here changes daily and features a great range from simple wraps through to specials like mackerel salad and roast veg risotto.

On the second night of our stay we made use of a ready made fire-pit we discovered high up in the dunes, a simple circle of stones someone had used before. Here, we feasted on king prawn and chorizo skewers and fresh local mackerel, played ball games and snuggled up in blankets and watched the sun sink towards the horizon

SEE & DO

Keen to make the most of our weekend break, we headed out early on the Saturday morning, walking straight from Driftwood across the dunes towards Godrevy Lighthouse. As we walked, we watched Skylarks take flight, singing their warning high into the air. The occasional surfer darted across the shore for an early morning paddle.

I had been told of a seal colony that lived on the beach the other side of the Godrevy headland. The views were incredible, steep cliffs and crashing blue sea, but not a seal in sight until we rounded the final bay. There below us were about fifty seals all sunbathing on their own private beach. We spent a good half an hour watching the dynamics of the group and making up names for them. Walking back from the headland we spotted adders, a grass snake, nesting skylarks and herons.

Later that afternoon, we took the train from Lelant Saltings Park and Ride into central St. Ives. The train hugs the coastline all the way offering fabulous view of St. Ives’ beautiful beaches. Spilling off the train right in the heart of the town, you can be eating ice-cream on the harbour wall within minutes. The main purpose of our trip though was to visit Vittals the fishmongers where we ordered our supper for the next few days; crab, mackerel and king prawns.

Waking to heavy rain on the Sunday, we headed inland to Tehidy Park for a walk through the bluebell woods, and then onto the wonderful, canary-yellow Gurnard’s Head for lunch and a drive around the southern tip of Cornwall.

A weekend just wasn’t long enough for all this lovely stretch of coastline has to offer, but being able to stay right there on the shore’s edge was a real treat; just perfect if you love the ocean as much as we do.

Images by Lou Archell & courtesy of Forever Cornwall